Sundogs

I know people probably think I'm crazy to love winter here so much, but I really do.  I will never fall out of love with the sound fresh fallen snow makes when you walk on it.  Winter in Alaska is the time of year that I always seem to experience the most firsts.  Last year was the first time I had experienced extreme cold, frozen eye lashes and that feeling where you know the inside of your nose is freezing.  Winter is just beginning here this year.  The snow seems to have finally arrived to stay and temperatures have dropped to single and negative digits.  I've officially pulled my heavy Canada Goose winter coat out of hibernation - although, I don't know how long I will be able to wear it for.  Already it's getting difficult to zip around my quickly expanding belly.  I had forgotten how difficult it is to drive wearing my bulky snow boots.  
One of the things that I love about winter here is the diamond dust.  When temperatures drop low enough and the sky is clear enough the moisture in the air freezes; the ice crystals reflect the sun and create a shimmering effect.  At first you think it is snowing, but then you realize that there are no clouds and what you think is snow is too fine and never actually falls to the ground.
A few nights ago I experienced a couple of new firsts. Working in fast track I get off much later than I used to with outpatient clinic.  This one particular night I unplugged the car and fought and fought with the completely frozen 25 foot extension cord.  I gave up trying to unplug the end attached to my car, it wasn't budging.  I spent close to 15 minutes forcing the frozen cord to wrap around my side mirror.  Not an easy task I assure you when your hands are as frozen as the cord is!  Once the cord was finally secure I next set about scraping my windows.  I scraped until my arms were sore but the windows weren't clearing up.  After a few choice words not appropriate for this blog, I realized the reason was because the frost was on the inside of the windows!!
My most recent first new experience was an atmospheric phenomenon called a parhelion or sundog.  There have been many occasions living in Bethel where I have wondered if I was still in the United States, but this experience left me wondering if I was still on planet earth!  Sundogs occur when the temperatures are cold enough that the light reflects off ice crystals in the air (diamond dust).  It gives the illusion of more than 1 sun.  On this particular day the diamond dust was everywhere giving everything a sparkly, shimmery look, and the sundogs gave the appearance of there being not 1, but 3 suns.  I was half expecting a dragon or pegasus to fly over me because surely I was either dreaming or had somehow walked into another world.
The pictures below are exactly how the sun appeared.  They are not Photoshopped,and it is not a trick of a special lens or filter.  The only thing the camera didn't pick up was the shimmering of the diamond dust.        

Our Disastrous Date

The opportunities for a date night are few and far between here in Bethel.  We have no movie theater, no bars, no clubs, no mini golf courses.  The few restaurants we have all pretty much serve the same expensive food.  
Every few months the Cultural Center hosts a "community" event.  Tickets to these events aren't the cheapest, but usually a nice dinner is served (something you won't find in the local restaurants) and various items, depending on the theme of the event, are auctioned and raffled off.  
This year we decided to attend one of the events we did not get a chance to go to last year, the NRA dinner.  (Yes, NRA, as in National Rifle Association)  Mark laughed at me saying only in Bethel would I ever consider an NRA event to be a date night!  So true!  But I was really looking forward to this night.  Mark and I hadn't been out without the kids since our Hawaii trip in April and we were due some adult time.  Plus, I had heard really good things about the prime rib dinner.  
As our date night approached I got more and more excited.  The doors to the Cultural Center opened at 5:00 but dinner wasn't served till 6:30.  We knew we wanted to get there at a decent time so we could get good seats.  Don't get me wrong, this isn't a restaurant style dinner with quaint little private tables reserved for ticket holders.  It's long tables in rows so you can sit next to your loved one and all your closest Bethel friends.  
The babysitter arrived a little before 5:30 and just as we were getting ready to walk out the door Luke throws up!  In desperate hopes that it was too much Halloween candy and running around we did a quick clean up and left.  The babysitter promised to call if he got sick again.  
So we got to the Cultural Center later than hoped and we paid the price for it.  There wasn't a single seat!  We lapped the room twice without any luck finding 2 seats together.  The event coordinators advised us to get in line for dinner and assured us they would get 2 seats together for us once we got our food.  No sooner did we get in line and my phone rang... Yep, it was the babysitter, Luke had gotten sick again!  I promised to eat quick and then hurry home.  
We got our food and again tried to find seats.  No coordinators could be found to help us (they were probably all enjoying their food together at seats reserved just for them).  I found a single seat between two groups of people I didn't know who didn't say a single word to me the entire time I ate.  Mark ended up on the other end of the room sitting on a piano bench.  I tried not to worry too much about the fact that our date night was being cut short and we weren't even able to eat a quick dinner together.  At least I would get a nice prime rib dinner before I left...  So much for wishful thinking.  The meat was dry, the baked potato was burnt beyond edibleness, and the salad consisted of just lettuce.  I ate what I could and left Mark with some friends (at least one of us should be able to enjoy a night without kids) and went home to a sick child.  
When all was said and done, between dinner and raffle tickets and the babysitter we spent about $200 for barely edible food, no raffle wins and not even being able to eat next to each other for the short time I was there.  The joys of being a parent, and the limitations of living in Bethel.  Lesson learned: wait to have date night till we are back in the lower 48 and $200 will pay for good food and a private table!  Can't wait till our visit home in February!  

Winter is almost here

All the signs are there.  The wind is picking up and coming more out of the north, we regularly have to scrap our car windows in the morning before work, thin sheets of ice are forming on the tundra ponds, ravens are quickly becoming the only birds left, and the sun is finally setting at a reasonable time.  

I often wonder how this winter will be for us.  Not only have I heard murmurs of a longer colder winter than last year, but last year everyday was a novelty.  Our first ALASKAN winter!  It was easy to laugh at -55 degrees when you had never before experienced anything that cold.  This year however... it's old news.  (Not to mention, this year I may not be able to zip my coat over my belly.)  

Regardless of all the things there are to dread about winter here (and their are many) I'm still excited.  How in the world could I possibly be excited about only 4 hours of sun light, temperatures so cold your eyelashes freeze and snow drifts that can swallow a car whole?  Easy.  Winter is the only time of year that I get the chance to view the most amazing light show on earth!  There is just something about the Aurora Borealis that fascinates me.  I don't know if it's my desire to get that perfect Northern Lights picture, or if it's just the simple fact that rainbows can streak across the night sky, but I can't get enough of them.  

Last night my longing for the darkness of winter was renewed.  Completely unexpected, as I drove home from work a little after 11:00pm I noticed a strange grey to part of the sky.  Once I parked my car and my eyes adjusted to the dark it hit me that I was looking at the Northern Lights.  At the time they weren't doing much and didn't have much color to them.  But as I walked out into the dark tundra, away from the house lights and street lights the colors became more visible.  The longer I waited the more active they became.  It was totally worth it to stand out in the cold wind with nothing but a pair of scrubs on and a thin jacket.  Last year we only saw the lights in Bethel once, and only green.  Last night however, the show included not just the typical greens, but reds as well!  It was beautiful!  Time again to freshen up my review of how to photograph the Northern Lights and work on getting that perfect picture!

Babies in the YK Delta

Expectations for pregnant women living in the Yukon Kuskokwim Delta are above and beyond anything I have ever come across in the lower 48.  But that shouldn't surprise anybody who has been reading this blog and has even the slightest understanding of how different medical care out here can be.  Most pregnant women anywhere have their ideal birth plan.  For some it's a scheduled induction with an epidural surrounded by their closest family.  For others it's a natural birth, dad holding her hand speaking words of encouragement, and family and friends waiting close by for news of when they can see mom and meet baby.  Most women fall somewhere in between the above two scenarios.  Never though, have I met a pregnant woman (although I'm sure a few are out there) who said her ideal birth plan is to be alone in a strange town miles away from family and friends, with a doctor and staff they have never met.  But that's the reality for pregnant women living in one of our 58 villages.  As Bethel is the only hospital within a 58,000 square mile area, it is the safest place to deliver a baby.  Now I know some of you are thinking, why not use midwives?  Believe me, I am all for midwives.  Having had my second child delivered in a birthing center by a midwife, I think the profession is very valuable.  However, I was only minutes away from a hospital.  If, God forbid, something had started to go wrong with my labor and delivery I would have been whisked away to the hospital and the more advanced medical care I was in need of.  But out here, for most of the villages, Bethel (the nearest hospital) is hours away, days if the weather is bad and the planes aren't flying; when minutes can sometimes mean the difference between life and death of mom and baby, it's just not worth taking the chance.  So every pregnant woman at her first prenatal appointment is asked to sign the "Be in Bethel" paperwork.  This is an agreement between the hospital and mom that she will leave her home, other children, husband and support system, travel to Bethel at 36 weeks and remain here till she delivers her baby.  Wow!  I couldn't imagine if my doctor told me that a month before my baby was even due I had to leave my entire comfort zone and support system, and live in a hotel in a strange city until I had my baby.  On top of that, I couldn't imagine my husband not being there to witness the birth of his child.  But that's how it is out here, and for good reason.  Moms and babies who tried to stay home and deliver in their village have suffered terrible consequences.  In fact, the "Be in Bethel" agreement came into effect some 40 years ago when a mom started having complications during delivery in a village.  The health aide (who was trained in child birth) needed more advanced medical help.  A medevac team with a labor and delivery nurse was sent to bring mom to Bethel.  Sadly the plane crashed and all on board were killed.  

The hospital here is set up to act more like a birthing center.  Perhaps the main difference is that epidurals are NOT offered.  That's right, unless an emergency c-section is needed, all our women deliver their babies naturally.  Women who strongly desire an epidural must pay their own way to Anchorage and deliver there.  As a result, our nurses are excellent in helping women work through the pain of labor, rather than so many other labor and delivery nurses I have met who are quick to offer epidurals or other pain medications.

You may be wondering where all this talk of babies is coming from.  Why write about this now?  Although I will thankfully not have to experience leaving my family and traveling to another city; I will get to experience having a baby in Bethel.  We are expecting our third little bundle of joy March 30th 2014.  

 

Home

Kids with Grandma and
Great Granddaddy

A couple weeks ago we all went home for the first time since moving to Alaska.  It was really nice being back home, even though it was a very short trip (4 days of travel for 4 days of home time).  It was great getting to see family we haven’t seen since our move, and it was such a pleasure getting Chick-fil-A (3 times!!).  We learned a lot from this trip though, and will most definitely do things a little different next time.

Mark and Gianna with his
brother and dad

Lesson 1:

Alaska Airline is the ONLY airline worth flying.  I have flown a lot over this last year and each time was with a different airline.  This trip we flew mostly Delta, which I thought would be fine.  In the past I remembered having good experiences on Delta.  But… in the past I didn't fly with kids.  The customer service and courtesy with Alaska just can’t be touched by these other airlines.  When did every other airline stop boarding families traveling with small children first?!  I know not everyone would find this a big deal, but we do, and on the days we were flying, so did everyone around us!

Luke helping himself before the
party starts

Lesson 2:

NEVER sit in the row in front of the exit row!  Those seats don’t recline.  Imagine, seat pockets are full of sippy cups, coloring books, games and other various items of entertainment bulging them forward to their max, a baby on your lap and then the lady in front of you reclines all the way back.  My knees were practically bruised by the end of the flight and I think if I had hit my forehead on the back of her seat leaning forward to talk to Mark or Luke one more time I was going to scream.

Little Miss Thing with her cookie

Lesson 3:

The more lay overs the better!  This lesson I wasn't expecting.  On our way over we went from Anchorage to Portland, Portland to LA, LA to Nashville.  The longest leg was 3 and half hours.  On the way back we flew from Atlanta to Anchorage, 7 and half hours (which by the way is when we learned lesson 2).  I thought for sure they would offer an in flight meal (they did on our 7 ½ hour flight to Ireland), but I was wrong.  The only food they had was one expensive packaged sandwich and some little snacks.  Of course Luke had no interest in the sandwich, so all we heard for the last 3 hours of the flight was about how hungry he was. 

Lesson 4:  The most important lesson

Stay longer!  4 days was just nowhere near enough time to truly relax and enjoy our family and friends.  We should have stayed at least twice as long as that.  And it wasn't just the relaxation factor, I was not expecting it to be as hard as it was to say good bye to everyone again.  Some will come visit us up here, others we won’t see till our next trip home.  It actually made me tearful to say goodbye again, which was strange for me as I've never been the type to get homesick. 

Catching a nap with Uncle Quint

Daddy and his little girl

Ketchikan and British Victoria

After leaving Glacier Bay National Park we set our course for Ketchikan Alaska.  We were only in Ketchikan for a little over 4 hours, which I hadn't realized when I signed us all up for a 4 hour excursion.  Needless to say we didn't have any time to just explore the "salmon capital of the world".

We began our time in Ketchikan at Totem Bight State Park.  The totem poles were amazing.  Some were so tall I couldn't fit the whole pole in one picture no matter how far back I stood.  Each totem pole told a different story, a different legend of the native people.  I thought the totem poles were very interesting... Luke and Gianna didn't quite agree.  While the tour guide tried to tell each pole's story to the attentive group, Luke and Gianna were intent on seeing how far they could push our patience.  Finally, we gave up trying to hear the stories of the poles and fell back away from the group to let the kids run around.

Following the totem poles we moved onto the Lumberjack show.  Gianna fell blissfully asleep on the way there and stayed that way through most of the show.  Luke was in seventh heaven when we gave him his own bag of popcorn.  The show was neat, a little corny at times, but Luke enjoyed it and that's why we went.  Immediately following the show we had to race to the ship or risk being left behind.  No time for pictures, no time for shopping.

The next evening we arrived at our last port of call, Victoria, British Columbia.  This stop was another 4 hour call.  Since we didn't arrive until 7:30 PM, Mark and I decided not to sign up for any excursions.  Instead, we ate dinner on the ship and then took a double decker bus (a huge hit with Luke) into town.  We spent the next hour and a half just wandering the town.  Victoria is a beautiful, wealthy town.  Ultimately we spent more money at this port than any other port.

The cruise overall was a lot of fun.  Would I do it again with 2 toddlers... probably not.  But I'm still glad we tried it.  It was so good seeing so many family members.  After the cruise, mom and Alisha came back to Bethel with us for a week.  It was nice to have them here, I just wish the weather would have cooperated a little more.  I think the sun finally came out the day they left!

Skagway and Glacier Bay National Park

"The Golden Staircase" - Chilkoot Trail

Following Juneau we headed to Skagway, Alaska.  Skagway is THE picturesque Alaskan town, with the water on one side and the White Mountains on the other.  Interestingly enough Skagway is actually on the road system.  Not even our capital can boast that!  For all intensive purposes, Skagway exists today because the Klondike Gold Rush existed.  Although inhabited by the Tlingit people prior to the Gold Rush, few natives still live in the area.  Skagway sort of served as the base camp for gold rushers going to the Yukon.  Two trails worked their way through the White Mountains into Canada, the White Pass and the Chilkoot.  The White Pass became known as Dead Horse Trail as more than 3,000 horses lost their lives to the heavy loads, inexperienced travelers and rough terrain.  Today the Chilkoot trail is still actively hiked by backpackers and has definitely been added to Mark and I's bucket list!    
Skagway was the only port 
that our whole group took the same excursion.  We started out on a tour bus and drove into the mountains.  Our guide filled our heads with all kinds of facts about the gold rush and the two trails.  We made several picture stops along the way before arriving in Carcross, Yukon.  Carcross was by far the highlight of the excursion for the kids.  There was a little petting zoo and both Luke and Gianna thought the goats and puppies were there just for them.  As for me, Carcross was some of the most beautiful scenery.  The mouth of the Yukon river, the same Yukon river that runs near Bethel, begins in Carcross between two gorgeous mountains.  

The next part of our excursion was the return to Skagway trip on the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad.  Although we were essentially returning the same way we came up, we were away from the road enough that we got a whole new perspective of the White Mountains.

Mouth of the Yukon River

Once back in Skagway, Mark and I enjoyed a beer at the Skagway brewing company, did a bit of shopping then returned to the ship for dinner. 
The following day was spent on the cruise ship touring Glacier Bay National Park.  Praise God the weather was beautiful!  The ship moved slowly through the park and sat for a while in front of each of the glaciers.  Park rangers boarded the ship early and were there for most of the day to answer peoples questions.  Margerie Glacier was my favorite.  Not only was it beautiful, but we got to see several small ice calves.  
At the end of our time in Glacier Bay National Park we saw more sea life than on any other part of our trip.  We saw otters, sea lions and lots and lots of whales!  We saw whales eating and even saw 2 whales breach!!  They were pretty far in the distance, but close enough to see with the naked eye that a giant animal just jumped clear out of the water.   
I loved the time we spent in Glacier Bay, but it was frustrating at the same time.  For some reason Luke and Gianna just weren't very interested in glaciers...